![]() I wouldn't let it be a reason to retire from the race. It installs permanently on the boom and allows you to instantly attach your. It shouldn't be an issue downwind, you can compensate by having a little more vang on. The 433 Dinghy Clew Hooks are designed for ILCA and other loose-footed dinghies. There are plenty of newbies out there sailing around with the clew tied down and doing just fine. Clew hook/shackle o Cunningham (complete) Turning block for vang unit / pin Complete line system o Traveler line o Traveler block o Bow line o Wind indicator Options o Carbon 6 Lower Carbon ILCA 6 lowers will not be available for charter and will not be permitted under any circumstances, in order to make sure the boats are as matched as possible. 10 From the fittings pack locate the the Masthead Plug and carbon Backstay Crane. ![]() Once fitted, close up the hook with a pair of thin nosed pliers to prevent the sail slipping off the hook. Not having the clew down on the boom really only affects your pointing ability when you are two-blocked. 9 Clip the Sail Clew Hook through the Clew Eye in the rear corner of the Mainsail. In that case, I think you need to go for a swim. In that case, the crew on such a boat may want to use a reaching strut or some other type of pole to hold the clew outboard. the aft portion of the jib can still hook significantly back toward the rail, inducing drag rather than power. This will be next to impossible if it's a clew tie down in hvy air, I've haven't seen too many people able to tie knots before the boat falls away from head to wind. Leech and foot tension on the headsail are set by adjusting where the block attaches to the clew. Other changes also include changing to Tii-On blocks and going up a sheave size. Some sailors may prefer to use a shackle rather than an A2021HK for attaching the outhaul system to the clew of the sail. ![]() You can re-attach the clew strap by yourself, but it has to done quickly - vang off, outhaul extra tight (which helps pull the clew down to the boom) and then stick the boat into the wind and work fast. 1 x A5849 Outhaul and Cunningham mast base plate with two A2021F. I simply bent a spiral of wire so that it clipped on to a leather work belt and held a wire claw (from the same root) upwards to hold my yarn. Next best is to have another sailor hold you - sail up to leeward, other sailor holds your boat while you fix. A clew is simply a hook, hung from the belt, on which a ball of yarn is impaled. Please, if you are going to toss out opinions and advice with such amazing frequency and run for some Class office (unless that is some elaborate joke), at least be consistent in your views and advice - otherwise, you come across as simply being a know it all typing to hear the sound of your own voice.The harder the wind is blowing, the harder it is to deal with stuff at the end of the boom (clew tie-down, outhaul line etc)īest way is to have a support boat, crash boat or RC boat hold you into the wind while you fix it. In an earlier thread about this exact same topic, you mention that 1/4 inch won't make a difference, and then in this thread, you imply that the 'peace of mind' is worth 45 dollars? That is alot of hardware for a 8 dollar piece of line for a guy concerned about saving money. On the one hand you pontificate about saving money and on the other, you seem to have spent about 60 dollars on clew tie downs (as you say, you have never had a problem with the SEA, the Rooster or the Clew Sleeve). ![]() Ross - I don't get it Ross - you seem so full of contradictions. Chainsaw - I do the same as you, with one modification - if it is really honking and you're concerned about taking a grommet to the noggin, then I actually connect up the outhaul first, then put the boom in the goose neck. This involves having reef points on the sail that can form the new tack and clew when it is lowered, so that a slab of the sail is no longer used below the reef points.
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